But should I be really that suprised? Look at major cities in the USA.
People will say what they want, but to me this all resulted by allowing too many inappopriate immigrants into the countries. A major mistake made by a few people that has destroyed citoies and countries that took hundreds of years to build.
The Suzuki Hayabusa Gen2 (2008–2020) has cemented its legacy not just as a high-speed icon, but as arguably the ideal motorcycle platform for turbocharging, particularly for the dedicated street racer. The synergy of the Gen2's robust engineering and the straightforward nature of its electronics, compared to the modern Gen3, makes it a prime candidate for massive power gains. For riders looking to tap into a new level of performance without breaking the bank, a system like the Proboost Turbo Kit is a game-changer.
One of the most compelling reasons for the Gen2 Hayabusa's turbo suitability lies in its legendary engine strength. The 1,340cc inline-four engine is renowned for its durability and stout internals, capable of handling significant increases in horsepower with minimal or no internal modifications at lower boost levels. For context, while the stock engine produces around 190 horsepower, installing a turbo kit can immediately vault the rear-wheel power output well over the 300 horsepower mark on pump fuel, with some builds reaching over 450 horsepower with internal engine work and race fuel. This robust foundation, which includes a strong crankcase and connecting rod design, allows street riders to bolt on a turbo and experience explosive acceleration without the immediate need for a costly engine rebuild, a major financial and time advantage over many other sport bikes.
🛠️ Simplicity and Cost-Effectiveness: The Gen2 Edge
Unlike its more electronically complex Gen3 successor, the Gen2 lacks much of the intricate electronic rider aids (like a sophisticated IMU and multiple complex ride modes) that complicate forced-induction tuning. This relative electronic simplicity translates directly into easier installation and tuning, making the process more accessible and generally less expensive. The Gen2’s simpler architecture means fewer systems need to be bypassed, integrated, or tricked into handling the huge power increase. This ease of use is a significant factor in the growing appeal of turbocharged Gen2 'Busas among the street racing community, where riders often prefer wrenching on their own machines or having straightforward aftermarket support.
💨 The Proboost Turbo Solution: Affordable Street Power
For the surging number of street racers, the Proboost Turbo Kit, distributed in North America by HardRider Motowerks, offers an unparalleled blend of performance and value. With over 30 years of experience in turbo manufacturing, Proboost has designed a kit specifically with the street rider in mind. Priced as low as $2,900, it stands out as one of the lowest-priced turbo kits available on the market, democratizing extreme power for a wider audience.
A key benefit of the Proboost design for street racing is its "bolt-on" nature that retains the stock oil and cooling systems. This simple integration provides a real performance advantage on the street, as the preservation of the stock radiator and oil cooling systems means better cooling for both aggressive street riding and sustained high-speed runs. Maintaining optimal engine temperature is crucial for reliability under the stress of forced induction, giving the rider a distinct edge in scenarios where repeated high-power bursts are necessary. This combination of industry expertise, low cost, and street-focused engineering makes the Proboost kit the go-to option for unlocking the full, terrifying potential of the Gen2 Hayabusa.
For a supercharged V-Rod, the best engine control unit (ECU) is generally a full, standalone system like the ThunderMax with auto-tune technology, or an advanced flash tuner like the Dynojet Power Vision. Unlike a simple piggyback tuner, these options offer the level of control necessary to safely and effectively tune a forced-induction engine.
1. ThunderMax EFI Tuner (full ECM replacement)
This is widely considered the gold standard for Harley tuning, especially for significant engine modifications like a supercharger.
Pros:
Full ECM replacement: The ThunderMax completely replaces the stock ECU, giving you total control over all engine parameters.
Integrated auto-tune: It uses wideband oxygen sensors to continuously and automatically tune the air-fuel ratio (AFR) for optimal performance in all conditions. This is a massive advantage for a supercharged motor, as it simplifies the tuning process and keeps the engine safe.
Customizable: Allows for advanced adjustments to ignition timing, idle speed, and more
Cons:
High cost: It is the most expensive option, but the price reflects its advanced capabilities.
Learning curve: While the auto-tune feature is easy, mastering all the features requires some technical skill.
2. Dynojet Power Vision (flash tuner)
The Power Vision is an excellent, user-friendly flash tuner that is also very capable for supercharged V-Rods.
Pros:
Comprehensive tuning: It flashes the stock ECU, giving you control over ignition, fuel delivery, and more.
Intuitive interface: The full-color touchscreen makes data monitoring and tune flashing very easy.
Supports auto-tune: When paired with the optional Target Tune wideband module, it can achieve a tuning strategy similar to the ThunderMax.
Cons:
Requires extra hardware for full auto-tune: You need to purchase the Target Tune module and its wideband sensors to get the best automatic tuning features.
3. Dynojet Power Commander (piggyback tuner)
For riders on a budget, a Power Commander can work, but it offers less control than a full replacement ECM or flash tuner.
Pros:
Cost-effective: It is much less expensive than a full ECM replacement.
Easy to install: It plugs directly into the factory harness and does not require flashing the stock ECU.
Cons:
Limited control: It works by modifying the signal from the stock ECU rather than directly controlling the engine. This makes it less ideal for the demands of forced induction.
Requires manual dyno tuning: To get the best results for a supercharged engine, a professional dyno tune is necessary. It lacks the advanced auto-tuning capabilities of the Power Vision with Target Tune or the ThunderMax.
Summary of recommendations
Feature ThunderMaxDynojet Power VisionDynojet Power CommanderTypeFull ECM replacementFlash tunerPiggyback tunerBest forMaximum performance and reliability for highly modified engines.
Excellent balance of features, ease of use, and advanced tuning when paired with Target Tune. Basic forced-induction setup on a budget; requires professional dyno tuning.
Key AdvantageContinuous, real-time auto-tuning with wideband sensors.
User-friendly touchscreen and powerful flash capabilities.Lower cost and easier installation for less complex builds.
ComplexityAdvanced tuning options but easy auto-tune process.Very user-friendly for flashing and monitoring.Easy installation, but manual tuning required for best results.
The Hayabusa typically comes with fully adjustable inverted telescopic forks, meaning you have adjusters for all three on the front forks.
Suspension tuning is highly personal and depends on the rider’s weight, gear, riding style, and the roads they ride on. Always refer to your Hayabusa Owner’s Manual for specific locations of the adjusters, tool requirements, and the factory baseline settings (usually in “clicks out” from fully tightened). Record your current settings before making any changes.
1. Setting Sag (Spring Preload Adjustment)
Purpose: Preload adjustment is the first and most critical step. It determines the correct ride height of the bike by adjusting the initial compression of the spring. This is essential for ensuring the suspension operates within its optimal range of travel.
Softer Ride: Generally requires less preload (more sag).
Firmer Ride: Generally requires more preload (less sag).
Steps:
Preparation: Put on all your usual riding gear (helmet, jacket, etc.). Have two friends available to help with measuring and stabilizing the bike. You will need a tape measure (metric preferred) and the appropriate tool for the preload adjuster (often a hex key or a C-spanner).
Measure Fully Extended Length (Zero Sag): Lift the front of the bike until the front wheel is completely off the ground and the suspension is fully extended. Have one person hold it stable. Measure the exposed part of the inner fork tube (from the bottom of the fork dust seal to the bottom of the triple clamp, or a consistent point near the axle—choose a clear reference point and use it for all measurements).
Measure Rider Sag: Sit on the bike in your normal riding position (feet on pegs). Have one helper balance the bike from the rear. The second helper should push down gently on the front end and let it rise slowly, then measure the same reference points.
Calculate Sag:
Target Sag: For a sport bike like the Hayabusa, a common starting target for street rider sag is usually around 25mm to 35mm (or about 1/4 to 1/3 of the total suspension travel). Check your manual for specific recommendations.
Adjust Preload:
If Sag is too high: Increase preload by turning the adjuster (usually a hex bolt or cap on the top of the fork tube) clockwise (in). This compresses the spring more, raising the front end and reducing sag.
If Sag is too low: Decrease preload by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise (out). This lessens spring compression, allowing the front end to drop more and increasing sag.
Re-Measure: Repeat steps after each adjustment until you are close to your target sag.
Adjusting Damping
Damping controls the speed at which the suspension compresses and extends. It is adjusted using “clickers” and is measured in “clicks out” from the fully tightened position.
Purpose: Controls the speed at which the fork extends after hitting a bump.
Softer Ride (Faster Rebound): Turn adjuster counter-clockwise (out) to decrease damping. This allows the fork to extend back faster, which can improve comfort over a series of quick bumps, but too fast can cause the bike to “pogo” or feel unstable.
Firmer Ride (Slower Rebound): Turn adjuster clockwise (in) to increase damping. This slows the extension of the fork, which improves control, especially during hard acceleration or after compression, but too slow can cause the suspension to “pack up” (not fully extend before the next bump), leading to a harsh ride.
Steps:
Locate Adjuster: Usually found on the top of the fork cap.
Find Baseline: Turn the adjuster all the way clockwise until it stops (don’t force it) and count the total number of clicks as you turn it out. Set it back to the factory/stock setting from your manual.
Test and Adjust: Ride the bike over a known test route. Adjust in increments of 1 to 2 clicks at a time.
Symptom: Front end bounces multiple times after a bump (pogoing): Increase rebound damping (turn in).
Symptom: Harsh ride, front wheel “packing up” or feeling like it won’t track the ground over a series of bumps: Decrease rebound damping (turn out).
Compression Damping
Purpose: Controls the speed at which the fork compresses into a bump or under braking.
Softer Ride (Less Compression Damping): Turn adjuster counter-clockwise (out) to decrease damping. This allows the fork to compress more easily, resulting in a plusher ride over small bumps, but too little can cause excessive dive under braking or bottoming out.
Firmer Ride (More Compression Damping): Turn adjuster clockwise (in) to increase damping. This makes the suspension stiffer and more resistant to compression, improving control during hard cornering and braking, but too much leads to a harsh ride that can transmit every small bump.
Steps:
Locate Adjuster: Often found on the bottom of the fork leg near the axle.
Find Baseline: Turn the adjuster all the way clockwise until it stops and count the total number of clicks as you turn it out. Set it back to the factory/stock setting.
Test and Adjust: Ride the bike over your test route. Adjust in increments of 1 to 2 clicks at a time.
Symptom: Excessive front-end dive during braking or bottoming out over large bumps: Increase compression damping (turn in).
Symptom: Harsh ride over small, sharp bumps (feels like hitting a brick): Decrease compression damping (turn out).
